The iPad given away at the Las Vegas Pool and Spa Show was won by Greg Dolzonek in Huntsville.

• Level excavation not required
• No finishing of the footing
• One time pour
• One time pump charges
• No cold joint between footing and wall
• Stronger
• Less labor
• Less Time
• Greater profits

Learn more by watching the instructional video found in our video gallery.

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Pool size                                   Hours                       Number  of workers

16×32 Rect. w/ 2′ R                     5                                              2

18×36 Rect. w/ 2′ R                     6                                              2

20×40 Rect. w/ 2′ R                     7                                              2

16x32x41 Full “L”                        8                                              2

16×32 Kidney                              7                                              2

18×36 Kidney                              8                                              2

20×40 Kidney                              9                                              2

16×32 Roman                              6                                              2

These time estimates do not include footing labor. The Spider Tie system requires the footing to be poured before the walls are built rather than after which is the standard procedure with steel and polymer wall systems. The amount of concrete needed for the footings for the Spider Tie system is typically less than is required for most steel and polymer wall systems. In the case of a plaster finish pool the entire floor system is poured first prior to building the walls. See structural engineered drawings for further explanation.

The taller the wall the more hydraulic pressure you will have to deal with at the lower sections of the forms. To provide enough support for your plywood you will need space the Spider Tie stacks closer together. The thicker the plywood the less support it will need. Here are some general suggestions* to follow.

• Walls up to 3′ tall- new and dry 1/2″ plywood
• Walls up to 5′ tall- new and dry 5/8″ plywood
• Walls up to 8′ tall- new and dry 3/4″ plywood, only fill forms half way and wait until concrete has begun to set up before filling the second half.
• Walls over 8′ tall- new and dry 3/4″ plywood, only fill forms 4′ at a time. Wait until concrete has begun to set up before proceeding with the next 4′ lift. Continue this process until you have filled the forms all the way to the top.

We recommend spacing the Spider Tie stacks at 16″ on center based on the plywood recommendations above. For the walls 5′ and shorter if you increase plywood thickness to the next size up you may space the spider Tie stacks at 2′ on center.

*The condition of your form plywood plays a big part in the success of your project. Always thoroughly inspect the condition of your plywood before starting any project. It’s always recommended to use clean, new, dry plywood. Rated concrete form ply, if properly oiled and care for can be used several times without problems.

A few things you need to keep in mind when deciding what type of plywood will work best.

1. How tall is your wall going to be? The taller the wall the more hydraulic pressure there will be on the forms. A thicker plywood or form ply is needed to handle the pressures during the pouring process. Here are some suggestions:

• Walls up to 3′ tall- new and dry 1/2″ plywood
• Walls up to 5′ tall- new and dry 5/8″ plywood
• Walls up to 8′ tall- new and dry 3/4″ plywood, only fill forms half way and wait until concrete has begun to set up before filling the second half.
• Walls over 8′ tall- new and dry 3/4″ plywood, only fill forms 4′ at a time. Wait until concrete has begun to set up before proceeding with the next 4′ lift. Continue this process until you have filled the forms all the way to the top.

Altering the spacing of the Spider Tie stacks so that they are closer together also will  increase the performance of your plywood. Most of the time “blow outs” occur because the plywood was is not supported properly. The goal is let the Spider Ties do the work so the plywood doesn’t have to.

• Boom pump- The easiest way to place the concrete into the forms, but boom pumps create an extreme amount of additional pressure on the forms. The concrete is free falling some times from as high as 60′ in the air. This increases the chances of “blow outs” if you are not extremely careful. If you have no other method to place the concrete, ask the pump operator to use a smaller diameter hose at the end of the pump. In some locals you are allowed to use an “S” reducer where the steel pipe meets the rubber hose. Also, have the operator run the pump at a much slower pace. The issue is not with the Spider Ties but rather the strength of the plywood you are using. A rated form ply will perform much better.
• Grout or Line pumps- Also a very easy way to place concrete in the forms. Unlike a boom pump, these pumps are very gentle on the forms. A few thing to consider. These pumps use a smaller diameter hose for maneuverability. So the mix design of the concrete will require a smaller aggregate (rock) so that the concrete can flow through the line without complications. Check with the batch plant before ordering. Also do not drape the hose directly over the forms. The surge of the hose during the pumping process can cause the forms to be weakened. Grout or Line pumps are our first choice for concrete placement.
• Direct from the concrete truck- If your project site is organized properly many times you can save money by pouring the concrete into the forms directly from the truck. Be sure the ground is stable enough so the the truck does not cause cave-ins around your forms. Front end discharge trucks work the best for this approach.

Proper consolidation of the concrete is always recommended. The simple approach is to tap on the outside of the forms with a rubber mallet or hammer until the concrete is fully consolidated. Another more assured way is to use a concrete vibrator. One thing you must keep in mind when using a vibrator is that over vibrating the concrete will increase hydraulic pressure and can cause  the plywood to “blow out”. So use caution when working with a concrete vibrator. Smaller vibrators always work best on walls allowing you more control.